Years ago my old friend Larry "Fats" Goldberg told me about an iconclastic restaurateur in Greenwich Village so when I noticed a documentary about Shopsin's, I was eager to see it.
Though the film itself has all the qualities of a film student's earliest efforts (poor camera work, personal vidcam with button microphone attached to interviewees' shirts or handheld close to the interviewees' mouths), it is, in fact, the work of Matthew Mahurin who has a long history of noted music videos. But I didn't let the technique interfer with my enjoyment of this documentary as it essentially fits in with Kenny Shopsin's own indominable and quirky style.
With hundreds of items on the menu (most quite unique), cramped quarters, and Kenny's sometimes profane philosophies and house rules, regulars haunt the place. But beware: Unless you've been to Shopsin's with a regular and have learned the rules, you're just not welcome and will be escorted out. Also, don't even think about entering if your group has more than four people and forget about carry-out -- it isn't done here.
But learning and abiding by the rules is rewarded with the likes of Macaroni & Cheese Pancakes, Taco Fried Steak, Thai Cobb, Corned Beef Latkes, Bleu Cheese Malts, and more.
According to Shopsin, "The basis of all fusion cooking is the sexual tension that occurs when you put the wrong ingredient in an improper dish."
In the film we meet Shopsin's long-enduring wife Eva who knows to walk out the door for fresh air when he's "in a mood,"his college-aged twins, his dedicated employee Juan, several regulars (including writer Calvin Trillin), and wanna-be regulars. We also see Kenny make the decision to move to a new location on Carmine Street after 32 years on Bleeker Street when the building is sold and the new landlord wants to significantly raise his rent.
In 2007 (three years after this documentary was released), Shopsin's moved yet again, this time to the Essex Market on the Lower East side. This joint is even smaller without as much room for Kenny's wild trinkets and the rules have eased but try it if Kenny will let you in -- otherwise check out this documentary.
Rated R for pervasive language.
My personal rating: B-
